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$56.95 to $109.95
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$39.95
Mini Swords: Collect all Six, 1 Free!
$14.95 per Sword |
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Gold Hilt - 43 Inches - 4lb 13oz
$264.94 |
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Richard the Lionheart Swords - From $149.95

El Cid Swords - From $56.95
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Classic Swords
Excalibur Swords
Sword of Robin
Hood
Black Prince
Sword & Dagger
Sword of Julius
Caesar
Masonic Sword
"Colada" Sword of
El Cid
Sword of the
Barbarian
Sword of Richard
the Lionheart
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Mini Sword Collection
Wall Displays
Shields
Armor
Collectibles
Accessories
(Everything you need to
display or carry your Sword.)
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| Usage Policy
Do not
swing any edged weapon carelessly.
Remember, this is a real weapon and must be treated with the
same respect you would give a loaded firearm. When you wish to
experience how it feels for warriors to wield these weapons in
battle, make sure you are well out of reach of anyone. These
weapons are very heavy and could slip out of your hands. Be
careful not to endanger yourself or others when you manipulate
these swords.
Do not bang your sword against another sword in a
theatrical-style duel.
Do not bang your sword against any hard object to test
its strength or the "sound" of the steel as it hits a hard
object.
No matter how tough or strong the steel is in any sword, it
will nick when struck against something equally hard. In stage
plays or in movies, theatrical swords with wide, thick edges
are used. The edges are flat and often as much as 1 1/6" wide.
Such theatrical swords are designed to take the flashy looking
punishment of banging edges together. Our swords are not
theatrical swords. Our swords are real weapons, designed so
that they could fight in the manner that originals were
actually used. Since the cutting edges could be easily be
sharpened and were often slashing, parries were made with a
the flat of the blade (not the edges) or were simply avoided
altogether. Real swords were never used for the theatrical
style of sword banging that the movies or stage plays rely on
to liven up the action sequences.
Do not attempt to chop down a tree with your sword.
Such an activity is guaranteed to damage your sword. Axes and
machetes are well designed for this with the weight of the
steel concentrated over the point of percussion. When you
strike a firmly fixed object like a tree or a thick branch
with a sword, a great deal of the blade projects past the
object being cut, causing the blade to bend or torque. It
should be pointed out that the Japanese, who believe in a
great deal of practice with the sword, used thick bamboo. The
bamboo was resistant to a cut, but didn't have the rigidity of
a tree, and so it would not have damaged a valuable blade. For
a Japanese warrior to cut into a tree would have been
unthinkable.
The edged weapon swords you receive from Historical Names and
Heraldry are all well made tools. In many ways they are
superior to the originals. Like all fine tools, they require
responsible use, care and maintenance.
Maintenance:
All metal parts of your sword should always be covered with a
light coating of oil to prevent rust, including the wire
wrapped handles. Wooden handles may be treated with a light
coating of lemon oil or tung oil to help prevent cracking.
Your sword comes with either a light plastic spray or a heavy
coating of grease to protect the blades in transport across
the ocean. You can remove these coatings with the use of a
good solvent such as lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Once
you have finished this, apply your light coat of oil or a
silicone spray. You can also wipe it with a silicone coated
gun/reel cloth. In many respects, the gun/reel cloth is
preferred as there is less tendency for dust to accumulate and
trap oxygen to cause pitted areas in the blade.
Leather scabbards and sheaths as well as leather covered
handles should be treated with a good paste wax. The scabbard
can also be treated with neatsfoot or mink oil for
waterproofing, although this is not recommended for gripping
surfaces. Do not store your sword in its scabbard for long
periods of time since the leather traps moisture which can
produce rust spots on the blade.
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